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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.